When I started surfing, there were nobody riding logs anymore.
Nobody seemed to be older than about 30 in the line-up.
There was definitely no Wrecks n Relics Comp for the 50+ vintage.
It's great that there's older crew still nailing a few bombs despite the ravages of time and disease, like Bill "Mr Woosleys" Stewart below.
Go hard young fella.
"I think it's almost Impossible for a young person to get into the head of an old person.
If we could the world would never go forward nor would it change.
The old are perhaps younger in mind than we.
But their bodies have rebelled against them,
and while we still have our eyes, our legs, our ears,
we cannot imagine this.
We think our material selves will last forever.
The old know better.
They know that nothing lasts but words, music and colour.
The rest is just a pile of bones and teeth and
a dark spot on the ground."
Erica Jong
Seducing the Demon
P205
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